Wednesday lunchtime this week was spent in the very agreeable company of my good friend Jon Moss. Jon had suggested we have a lunchtime catch up around his neck of the woods and so we plumped for the newest Michelin-starred gastro pub, The Pipe and Glass.
Situated just outside Beverley in East Yorkshire, the pub/restaurant has been plying its high quality trade for a number of years and it has been only very recently recognised by Michelin for the quality of its food, service and surroundings. It’s location is lovely, right in the heart of a sleepy, picturesque Yorkshire Wolds village and on the day we visited it was very atmospheric – misty with the smell of woodsmoke hanging heavily in the air. Perfect.
The place was very busy for a midweek lunch with a lot of the tables occupied and I suspect a lot of curious diners were just like us, wanting to see what all the fuss is about. We were not to be disappointed.
Pre lunch drinks for water for Jon and a glass of local ale – Wold Top – for me, which was crisp and fresh. The set up is similar to many gastro places where you order from the lounge and then are taken to your table when they are ready to serve you. This was fine although the lounge was a bit full of diners who had all booked at the same time, causing a bottleneck, but they staff soon got the orders in and diners seated.
Jon ordered the potted Gloucester Old Spot with pork crackling dressed salad and Spelt toast from the blackboard and I ordered the crispy fried wild rabbit rissoles with cockle and caper vinaigrette, sorrel and free range ham, from the main menu. Both were generously proportioned and packed with flavour. Delicious.
There is clearly some good cheffery on the go at The Pipe and Glass and more experienced foodies than I have already identified this. For mains I ordered the blackboard ‘Pub Grub Classic’ Fish Pie. As Julie will attest, I go weak at the knees when I see a good fish pie (it’s a childhood thing) and I simply couldn’t resist it. It came with a lovely brown shrimp and fennel side salad which was the perfect light accompaniment to the winter comfort grub.
The fish pie was a delight – perfectly seasoned with lovely soft heat coming from the pepper and the fish just kept coming in huge chunks. The salad was fresh, fennelly and fishy.
Jon ordered the venison and juniper suet pudding with wild mushrooms, butter braised chanteray carrots, crispy smoked bacon and something called ‘clapshot’ (whatever that is). Jon declared this nursery food of the highest order and set about demolishing the plate as if he’d not eaten for a week. Seriously, a tip here: don’t eat breakfast if lunching at The Pipe and Glass. The portions are generousy Yorkshire-sized.
We couldn’t face desert unfortunately – I know, lightweights I hear you cry – but we were seriously full and could only manage a coffee afterwards. All in all, a very satisfying experience – the service was as good as you’d expect from a Michelin star and there was no pretentious activity. The staff were friendly, down to earth and efficient.
The prices are also very sensible indeed with our lunch costing just £35 a head, including drinks. With value, service, location and food of this standard, there’s not many that can hold a candle to The Pipe and Glass. We have already booked our return with the full Globe Troffer contingent, which says it all.